When a dish is passed down through generations, exchanged between cultures or shipped abroad, its recipe is re-registered by everyone who eats it. At first glance, the differences may seem small, but everything can change over time. Old ingredients are replaced by new ones, new preparation methods are used and new names are given every now and then. While the increase in such changes may hide the original, each new "stratum" tells something about a different group of consumers: their taste, their economy, their language and, above all, their relationship to those from whom they accepted the dish is questionable.
This applies in particular to the Anglo-Indian cuisine. While the most obvious examples are of course curry and mulligata soup, perhaps the best is kedgeree: a rich an...
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